One end of each cable will be terminated with the largest male spade connector in the linked kit and the other end will be terminated with the PH-T crimps linked in the materials section. These should be fine to use, but I definitely recommend making sure the crimp is done properly and makes a solid connection.įor the battery to BMS/regulator board connector, there will be two wires, the positive terminal and the negative terminal. Depending on which version of the soldering iron control board you order, it might come with cables that have the JST-2.54 ends pre-crimped. These sets of cables are the cables that go from the battery terminals to the BMS/regulator board, from the BMS/regulator board to the soldering iron control board, from the soldering iron control board to the handle connector, and the final one from the control board to the ESD banana jack. There are three (technically 3.5-4 I guess) sets of cables that need to be created. I recommend working in areas at a time and using the hot air station to reflow each area before you move onto the next one. Leave the biggest parts (through hole, electrolytic caps, connectors, and inductor) for last. ![]() In addition, I recommend starting with the larger IC's and populating the smaller resisters and capacitors around those parts after. When assembling this board, I recommend having the board file open on your computer as a reference for what value goes in what location. Be careful lifting the stencil off the board as any lateral movement can smudge the paste. I generally apply a generous pile (a teaspoon or so) and spread it onto the board with a putty knife, scraping off excess as necessary. Before applying the solder paste make sure it is well mixed and add IPA or flux to it if necessary. When applying solder paste to my boards, I put the boards on a piece of magnetic material (a printer with a magnetic bed will work) and use strips of magnet around the board to hold the stencil down. The third purpose is to allow for switching between a wall wart power supply or the power tool battery to increase the usability of this device.Īssuming you did not opt for assembly of the board, make sure both the board and stencil are clean of any and all contaminants. The second purpose is to ensure the soldering iron control board receives a constant 24V instead of the 16.5V-20V range of the battery. The first purpose is to protect the battery, as for some reason Dewalt integrates the battery protection into the tool and not the battery unlike most other manufacturers. I assembled it by hand myself, but that will require steady hands and a magnifying glass. Due to the size of the several of the components on this board I would recommend ordering a stencil with the board at a minimum or possibly opting for an assembly service. Under worst case scenarios I expect around 3-5A to be running through the traces on the board and ordered 2oz to be able to better handle that with some thermal/current headroom. The important part when you order this board is to specify at least 2oz copper weight due to the current running through the board. I ordered my board through JLCPCB, but ultimately any fab house should work with the provided Eagle/Fusion360 eCAD files/gerbers. Aluminum does not conduct as well as copper, and cannot carry enough current at this wire gauge) Between 18-22 AWG copper stranded wire (do not use copper plated aluminum, make sure it is solid copper. ![]()
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